Tuesday, 13 October 2015

Elizabethan women and the modern woman.


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Elizabethan hairstyles were incredibly intricate. They were a necessary part of being a lady of a higher class. The more elaborate the hairstyle and outfit, the more attention you received at court which was very important when trying to achieve success. You had to keep up appearances. Ladies needed the newest designs and women usually used Queen Elizabeth as their inspiration as she was the style icon of the day. 
The hairstyles used were layered with different styling techniques, plaits, buns, curls, extensions and featured very elaborate hair accessories. The head pieces and hairstyles were created to compliment the dress the lady was wearing. They would adorn there hair with pearls, jewels and embroidery.
Today its quite similar when it comes to women with money or even money and fame and women with less. Women that have more money tend to have access to newer styles and techniques. They also can afford better hairstylists and afford having their hair done more often. Women with less money can afford to experiment thanks to cheaper and more accessible hair products but having your hair coloured, cut or styled is mostly a luxury. Your everyday woman usually only has her hair done up for proms, weddings or other special occasions. 
They were so creative in the Elizabethan times with regards to there fashion choices and hairstyles. They put a lot of effort in and I have to say that as time has moved on, the modern women definitely take's a more relaxed approach. Less effort is put into hair now a days. women tend to wear their hair down or up in a pony tail or other simple type of up-do. Some women do a little extra but in comparison to Elizabethan women its not nearly as elaborate. 
In modern times the only places you see such avant garde styles is on the catwalk and in fashion editorials. This goes to show how fashion savvy Elizabethan women were. 
Its easy to see why modern women and hairstylists use Elizabethan styles as inspiration for different styles and designs. I see it all the time in magazines and on the Internet. plaits and bun combinations and curly and frizzy looks. I've included some looks of contemporary hair styles that I like and that remind me of Elizabethan hair styles. 


http://www.tiptoptens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Queen-Elizabeth-the-First.jpg

Padding and Shaping. and crimping and frizz


Padding in the Elizabethan times.http://www.1st-art-gallery.com/thumbnail/246080/1/Queen-Elizabeth-I-2.jpg
 
Padding and shaping in modern times. http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b1/6a/1c/b16a1c9c4a99ccdee9bf52339b076976.jpg


























Step1.

Step2.

Step3.

Step 4.

Step5.
Step6.


Products used.

1.paddle brush
2.section comb
3.hair grips and bobby pins
4. section clips
5. clear bands
6. crimpers.
7.straightners

Crimping with crimping irons.



In todays lesson we learned about padding and shaping and how to achieve this kind of look. One of the ways to achieve this today is to crimp the hair with hair crimper's. You begin by sectioning the hair and then you crimp section by section.

Padding and shaping using the rat.

Photo's above.

Once you have crimped the desired area you begin to back brush your sections from underneath (this helps keep the end result clean and finished and makes it easier to style and shape). One of the queens favourite methods was using hair rats (pads filled with hair) This was because they created volume and height and were easy to shape. To put the hair rat in the hair,  you have to section the hair again so that you have hair to go over the rat. I also put a french plait behind this section (where the rat will sit) to make a foundation that will help the rat stay in place. To create my rat I got a stocking filled it with wool and tied the ends. You can however use crepe hair, cotton wool or any other mould able material. I applied the rat buy placing it over the french braid and pinning it in place. I then combed the hair over it and pinned the hair in place.

Outcome.

I definitely need to practise with this as my speed was slow. I definitely found the crimping, sectioning and french braid part easy to pick up but the hair rat was challenging to apply. I also had to change my back brushing technique as I used to just brush the hair back and forth for this technique. I now hugely see the benefit in just brushing the hair back slowly and precisely.  This gives a much stronger structure to the hair and makes my job of shaping the hair a lot easier.  
I think this crimping technique is a great contemporary way of achieving these Elizabethan hairstyle's. It can be quite a frizzy look but can also look very clean and finished if this technique is applied in the right way. 

Zigzag Crimping using the figure 8 method on a bobby pin.

We were then shown how to crimp the hair using bobby pins. This gives either a very precise crimp or if brushed out, can create a frizzy youthful look. This can take a long time to do, so you would need to make sure you had enough time. It is very precise but the end result is worth it. To create this look you again, section the hair and taking very small pieces you take a pin and rap the hair around it using the figure 8 method. You then pin the bottom to hold it in place and then place the straightening iron over it for a couple of seconds. Let the hair cool down and then un-clip and pull out the pin. the end result is a very precise zig zag shape.


This has been used quite frequently in fashion to create a natural Afro look. The more you brush it the bigger your hair gets.

Outcome.

I was able to see Helen (my lecturer) demonstrate this technique. I then practiced this myself and found that although this is a longer process, I much prefer the outcome. This technique can create a  larger dimension to the hair. Its a fiddly technique to get the hang of but again practice will improve my ability and speed in time. 




Technical file

Technical file

Friday, 2 October 2015

Queen Elizabeth: The Golden Age


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 This was sequel to the first Elizabeth Movie starring Cate Blanchett. This film explored the second half of Queen Elizabeth's Reign. Although again loosely based on historical events it was a good example of the fashion and style of that era. Referenced from historical portraiture it was a beautiful showcase of elaborate feathered hair pieces, bejewelled crowns and tight, weaved, plaited and curled hairstyles. These inspired upper class women of that time to emulate the queens style. 

The 2nd film's style was a lot richer in colour and accessories. the  hairstyles were actually created by wigs. At this point in Queen Elizabeth's reign she had shaved her head, inspired by the virgin Mary, she wished to become as pure as Mary, almost reborn as the new virgin Queen. The wig makers on the film were, Terry Jarius, Ray Marston and Carol Waugh. They did an amazing job creating wigs and headdresses that  complimented the dresses Cate Blanchett wore in the film.

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Still an influence.

Its amazing to me how still to this day, fashion is still influenced by Elizabethan times. The no eyebrows was a huge trend in 2014. Model's strutted down Alexander Wang's runways with bleached brows and pale skin. Givenchy's Fall/winter 2014 campaign featured no brow models. The edgy look has remained edgy and timeless. Its bold and strong so its only fitting that the most influential artists continue to use this historical trend. 

http://images2.fanpop.com/images/photos/2700000/Elizabeth-I-of-England-kings-and-queens-2712095-1024-768.jpg
http://ris.fashion.telegraph.co.uk/RichImageService.svc/imagecontent/1/TMG9158376/m/SS12SCB_ROwens_080_2173072a.jpg




Superstars like Lady Gaga, Katy Perry and Beyonce have also clearly been influenced by elizabethan times. Re-creating the regal theme and style of the times. I think because of the beautifully elaborate designs of Queen Elizabeth's dresses she will always be an influence and be referenced in fashion and current trends. 


Katy Perry Wonderland Magazine Cover http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2015/05/new-issue-katy-perry-shot-christian-oita/


Beyonce 'Mrs Carter' tour ad campaign http://cdn.news.o2.co.uk.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/BeyonceO2Priority2-675x310.jpeg









First Project New Elizabethans

http://s3.timetoast.com/public/uploads/photos/2231126/redheaded-queen-elizabeth-1st.jpg?1329485850
I'm really excited about this project. It feels like a great way to introduce complex hair designs and structures to my portfolio as the Elizabethan hairstyles were very intricate and creative. From looking at portraits of Queen Elizabeth through her reign and other women from that time, you can see that the hairstyles were very elaborate. At the beginning the hair seemed looser and was kept long this was to signify youth. As Elizabeth's reign continued the hair became more structured, greater with more elaborate shapes and details. Women dyed their hair red or lightened it to look as close to Elizabeth as possible. She was a style icon. Hats, scarfs and headdresses wore worn most of the time, not only to decorate the head but to shade the face from the sun to protect the face from colour as women liked their skin fair. Pearls and precious jewels were worn on women's hats and head-wear. This was a clear indication of class and stature and the hair and headdresses were made to create a heart shape.
 





Initial Thoughts Buns and plaits


Bun No. 1


Bun No.2

I really enjoyed my first lesson. We learned how to do 2 plaits (fishtail and french braid) and 3 buns. I found the first bun quite easy and fun to do but I struggled with the second 2 as I can be a bit of a perfectionist and like my styles that I create to look balanced.




Bun No.3

These were new techniques though so i know i just need more practise. I also really loved learning about the french braid and fish tail plait too and i definitely found these easy to get the hang of, once i got the basic technique down. I'm really looking forward to learning some more intricate designs. 

Fish Tail Braid first attempt
French Braid first attempt.